1 - Get an amplifier that has a "Night Mode" function. It has been a basic function on most AV-receivers in the past decade+, assuming you don't buy the most pedestrian model. It compresses the dynamic range of the sound, to avoid the loud parts waking up the neighbors while you can also hear the conversations. Of course here you are looking for an investment of between $350 and $inf. Buying secondhand can save big bucks.
2 - Use a PC for your video needs. Most video players support the same function (VLC, GOM player, Kodi... look for "dynamic range compression" and similar options). A 10 years old mid-tier machine will play everything including UHD, so this solution is fairly cheap. If you get a cheap IR-USB remote, you won't even have to mess with keyboard and mouse.
> 2 - Use a PC for your video needs.
I would like to second this recommendation. I've put my work desk in the living room; the 43" screen doubles as a (non-smart!) TV; instead of futzing with remotes I have a wireless mouse, an on-screen keyboard, and a macOS/iOS shortcut to switch the display between 2x (couch mode) and 1.5x (desk mode), which could also take care of audio routing, DND, lights, etc.
Using a real mouse + virtual keyboard is so much faster than ANY remote I've ever used, and if you're not into clicking, you can type with a "real" wireless keyboard[0]. Another upside, is you get to watch things in the browser - with a proper ad blocker - instead of half a dozen confusing TV apps. Setting everything up takes a bit more effort than plugging a stick into an HDMI port, but it immediately starts paying off.
[0]: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/d/microsoft-all-in-one-media... via friend's recommendation, they have a very similar setup with a projector and MS Windows.
Ive been using KDE Connect for years now, on many different devices and OS. Highly recommend. Basically a remote mouse and keyboard on your phone. The latency is very good too.
> 1 - Get an amplifier that has a "Night Mode" function
Well, or get a compressor/limiter that you can jank into any signal chain, so you don't have to buy a whole new amplifier. You can find cheap compressors/limiters for like under $100 I'm sure.
This would be a good option provided the source is stereo and either the speakers are active or the amplifier has a processor loop.